The justification for patents is that after a (relatively) short period of being under patent, because patents have to disclose how inventions work, the idea isn’t secret and anyone can use it. The patent system is the whole reason why companies don’t and can’t hide their inventions anymore. If we just got rid of the patent system wholesale, they’d go back to keeping things secret. That might be a big problem, or it might mean that, because anything that’s been reverse-engineered would be fair game, more things end up available sooner, depending on whether companies can obfuscate things well enough that it takes longer for a hobbyist to figure out than the patent would have to expire.

Technically it’s just that particular English translation that’s copyrighted. The original text is public domain.

Incel generally means the mindset rather than the literal definition. Getting laid doesn’t stop someone being an incel, and failure to get laid doesn’t make someone into one. It’s all the misogyny, entitlement and self-loathing that makes someone an incel.

One of the stills from one of the videos that the BBC showed identifying it as a Tomahawk showed it at a very un-cruise-missile way up, so it could just have malfunctioned during terminal guidance or been clipped but not destroyed by air defence, and then hit the wrong target. It could also just have been a governmenty-looking building close enough to an intended target that whoever was checking it didn’t notice it wasn’t the target. It’s a lot easier to get everything right when the whole mission is to hit one person with one missile when everyone’s got enough time to do their job perfectly and everything’s been rehearsed than when there are thousands of targets and people are doing things in a rush, especially if orders are coming from people who don’t care about international law.

There’s nothing inherent to small components to suggest that you have to review them. If they’re small, it’s easier to tell yourself that the LLM probably got them right and you’re justified in not checking.

Using an LLM to write tests and small components is still vibe coding.

It’s got an option called Precise Wall that’s supposed to improve dimensional accuracy that at least seems to work in my experience (although I’ve not compared it to the results from other slicers).

The right flowrate for dimensional accuracy is likely not the right flowrate to end up with solid parts where internal lines are properly smushed together. The sides of a 3D printed object aren’t flat, so if you adjust the flow rate so that the bits that stick out the most are exactly where you asked the slicer to put the edges of the wall, you end up with your internal lines just barely touching each other instead of properly bonded. You want to tune your flow rate to get solid parts when you ask for them, set the line width a little wider than your nozzle to give space for material to flow outwards (which happens whether or not you want it to, but things work better if you tell the slicer it’s going to happen), and then when you’ve got a part that really needs the dimensional accuracy to be right, maybe temporarily use Orca Slicer instead to get its precise wall feature.

CV padding and main character syndrome.

Password managers are supposed to be designed to resist a situation where they’re compromised, and are only ever supposed to see a mysterious blob of encrypted data without ever having access to any information that would help decrypt it. The headline’s more like M1 Abrams Tanks Vulnerable to Small Arms Fire - it’d be totally expected that most things die when shot with bullets, but the point of a tank is that it doesn’t, so it’s a big deal if it does.

The DHT11 has been replaced twice with similarly-priced but more accurate models, first the DHT22 and then the AHT20. In my experience, the AHT20 is a lot better than the DHT22, mainly because its power consumption is far lower, so it doesn’t mess up its readings by getting hot.

Also, at that size, I’d be very surprised if the dehumidifier has a compressor. It’s much more likely that it’s got a Peltier plate, and they’re not very good. They use a lot of power to develop and maintain a fairly small temperature difference, so if they’re in a confined space, they heat up the air quite a bit, and then the water from their tank will more easily evaporate.

If you’re willing to spend some money, a solid state ion membrane dehumidifier might be better for a small cabinet than a compressor-based one, as it’ll be easy to ensure the water goes out of the cabinet instead of into a container that can’t be emptied without opening the cabinet and letting more humidity in. They’re definitely not cheap, though. I think they’re still under patent as there’s only one manufacturer that I can find, so maybe they’re the dehumidifier of the future even if they’re not suitable right now.

If it’s the problem that I’ve seen people complain about in the past, it’s effectively the same as HTTPS ‘not supporting’ end to end encryption because it runs over IP and IP packets contain the IP address of where they need to go, so someone can see that two IP addresses are communicating, which is unavoidable as otherwise there’s nothing to say where the data needs to go, so no way for it to get there. Someone did a blog post a couple of years ago claiming Matrix was unsecure as encrypted messages had their destination homeserver in plaintext, but that doesn’t carry any information that isn’t implied by the fact that the message is being sent to that homeserver’s IP.

It was £7, so likely not worth the effort - if they want me to pay to ship it back, then that would cost about as much as the roll did - and it’s now outside the warranty period, so that would be pointless anyway.

When it’s hot, it stinks of hot ABS, and it dissolves in acetone. I’ve read that sometimes budget filament manufacturers will use the same pigment across their whole material range, even if it’s not capable of withstanding the print temperatures of some of them, but it’s ABS+ rather than pure ABS, so it could be full of mystery additives that don’t handle heat well, too.

There’s not much point using it as glue as I’m not going to get through a whole kilo worth of ABS glue, and produce more than enough ABS scraps from test prints and support to always make a colour-matched glue anyway.

Fillets are easier to print horizontally than chamfers as they spread the acceleration (i.e. the thing that makes sharp corners bad) over the while fillet instead of just splitting it into two stages like a chamfer would.

Chamfers are easier to print vertically than fillets as the overhang is limited and consistent.

There’s no overhang for a horizontal corner as you’re printing the same shape onto the layer below, and no acceleration for a vertical corner as it’s entirely separate layers so the toolhead never has to follow the path of the corner.

It sounds like you’ve read (or only remembered) half a rule. It’s not the case that either half of the rule is used the majority of the time because 3D printers are used to print 3D objects, so they always produce objects with both horizontal and vertical edges.

I’ve never actually needed primer to paint PLA unless the paint I was using was terrible, and wouldn’t have stuck to the primer very well, either. Tamiya’s acrylics have been entirely issue-free for me, both with a brush, or thinned and airbrushed, and they’re not that expensive, but I’ve also had acceptable results with random fifteen-year-old tubes of really cheap acrylics that were sold more as a children’s toy than a serious paint (although a lot of these tubes had gone bad in that time) and with Humbrol and Revel acrylics and enamels (although their acrylics come in pots that don’t seal very well, so it’s not that uncommon for them to be already cured when you first open them - if you’re buying liquid acrylics for model painting, Tamiya is a better choice).

Enzymes are specific to a particular molecule, or class of molecules with a particular pattern. A PEI buildplate is not getting eaten by the proteases in a dishwasher tablet. The reasons you’re not supposed to rinse things before putting them in the dishwasher are:

• most dishwashers have sensors to detect how much material is ending up in the water, and if things have been rinsed, it can mislead them into thinking the load is lighter than it really is.
• dishwashers replace some of the dirty water part way through the load, and the enzymes are more soluble than the dirt, so if there’s not much food residue for them to stick to, they can end up getting rinsed away part way through the cycle.
• it uses water and your time to rinse the dishes first, which is a waste if it doesn’t make them end up any cleaner.

I think it was pretty reasonable of them to worry - lots of people who don’t like spending unnecessary money also don’t like spending not-obviously-necessary money on safety equipment, and there’s plenty of material on the internet that would imply resin printing is completely safe as long as you don’t drink the stuff. Resin printing with woefully inadequate ventilation/PPE is really common, so it’s a pretty safe bet that anyone asking questions is probably also doing something unsafe without realising it, especially as resin not liking the cold is something a lot of people learn about fairly early on (unless they live somewhere where it never gets below 20°C).

To be fair, if I had all that money, I’d probably just pay someone to figure out how to make it do the most good, and continue spending at least some of my time shitposting. It’s okay to have hobbies, but it’s bad to hoard the money or invest it in evil.

I’ve found this is really dependent on placement. If I put my libre a couple of centimeters away from the region I usually use, it’ll read low all night, but as long as I stick to the zone I’ve determined to be fine, it’ll agree with a blood test even if I’ve had pressure on it for ages. Also, the 3 is more forgiving than the 1 or 2 because it’s smaller than the older models, so affects how much the skin bends and squishes less.