Same, so much so that I swallowed my pride and bought a H2S as well. The P1S has just been a champion since day 1. Zero issues, perfect prints.
I hate the direction they are moving in, but having a partner means compromises must be made. It needs to be fire and forget every single time.
My dream is to have a RatRig in the future that I can tinker and play with, but for now it’s happy partner or no printer in the house.
Ooof, this is the reason why I religiously watch the first layer and why my daughters ain’t printing without me or the missus around just yet!
I disagree, but not just to disagree.
AMS is still very useful for having hazzle free filament swaps, keeping the filament dry and with the AMS 2 even drying the filament.
If all you do is multimaterial or multicolour, then sure, INDX/Snapmaker/Vortek is amazing for time and cost saving, but most people at home will never ever be able to reach a volume of poop where it makes financial sense to pay the premium.
The Snapmaker is obviously an exception, but it sacrifices both build volume and a heated chamber to achieve the <1k price.
95% of what I do is mono colour, so the ocational toy for the kids with 200g of poop for a 50g part is worth the trade.
People also severely underestimate the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) for many of us. If my missus has to tinker more than 15 seconds before a print, I recieve the brunt if her frustration. It’s quite probable that all these tool-/hotend-swap systems will require some love as well. RatRig’s IDEX and Prusa XL have had many experienced people giving up.
I think this topic is highly subjective and personally just ordered the H2S. Quick math showed me I needed >75 rolls of pure poop before the H2D would make sense, and H2C will cost even more. I’d rather look at these systems down the line when more quirks have been ironed out.
I really have no clue.
It looks like a cool system, but I also think they might be rushing it to have a reply to the U1.
Will it work well from the get go?
How long does it take to change filament and hotend?
Will mis-alignment stop prints often, as things get worn?
They also cannot possibly price it lower that the H2D, as it is the same printer with more tech.
Prusa has also more or less confirmed to be releasing the INDX-system soon, which seems like a smarter system to me.
If it turns out as polished as Bambu often do and not to expensive (sub 3k), then it will demolish the competition. I’m happy we all get to be a part of the insane development race going on these days.
Also: if Prusa wants to compete, they have to offer a heated chamber and decent camera as standard. I still can’t fathom how they dared to release the Core One without.
I’m willing to pay quite a bit more for European made, but not if it feels like a complete rip-off.
Yeah, I think it’s very clever, but like you say it will be interesting to see how the system fairs outside a lab environment over time.
And even if it does work flawlessly, there is no way they will price it lower than the H2D which is already outside what I consider reasonable for sporadic home use.
If all my dreams come true, the competition heats up and they end up dumping the prices over the board.
Realistically though, I’ll keep an eye on the H2S over the next few months and see if people have issues with it before I give away even more of my hard earned money.
I’m thinking more and more that this is a semi-rushed response to Snapmaker having insane success on KS with their U1, more than a goodwill gesture from BL, tbh.
I also struggle seeing the true point of it, depending on what the price ends up being.
Let’s say it lands at 2500-3000€. The H2S will have higher print speed (lighter gantry), fewer movable parts and a thoroughly tested hot end setup at 1150€ without AMS.
1500€ in poop is going to take most people a lifetime to produce, not considering the advanced Vortek system needing maintenance. That’s like 75 full 1 kg rolls of pure poop if you pay 20€ for each.
It will also require at least two AMS units to function fully, both of which are proprietary and useless the day you buy another branded machine.
If you don’t need a heated chamber or the increased print size, you can get away with the P-series for even less money.
Add the closed ecosystem to the mix, and I can’t really see any viable reason to wait for the H2C at all…
Am I just being dumb here? I’d genuinely like to know
I’ve been trying to get a hold of Magigoo for TPU, but it’s chronically sold out locally.
Have you tested it on smooth PEI, or just textured?
Appreciate the feedback!
Appreciate the insight mate! Much appreciated!
Tape seems to be a cheap way some of the “older” guys run with, so I have to test it at some point.
You have my deepest condolances.
Come to the Nordics for a coolcation next year, but stay safe untill the heat wave passes my friend!
Thanks for the advice! I might try a small Z-offset for first layer
IPA is on the list of things to test. Cheers mate!
Thanks for the advice!
I ran a cold bed this time, but I’ve seen some say warming it up for removal also works.
So many things to test in the future!
I need to make a spray bottle and have it by the printer, as IPA comes up quite often, although with varying results.
Worth a shot!
Yeah you’re probably right. Different blends give different results.
Thanks for the filament advice. I try to purchase as locally as possible, but Geeetech is not etched into memory as a no-buy ABS!
I was already running at 30°C, but appreciate the advice nonetheless!
I’ll try completely off next time
Cheers mate! Much appreciated
I see many use glass still. Old school way of doing it, but if it works then I guess it’s good!
I’m mostly leaning towards smooth PEI with glue for my next print. Hopefully that will be better than textured with no release agent. Fingers crossed and thanks for the feedback!
Wait what?
The freezer trick I’ve heard of, but baby powder?
Applied before printing then, I guess?
My printer is enclosed and I’d wory about the aux fan blowing it everywhere.
Even with 0% fan for first layer, I’d never be able to perfectly distribute it under only the print…
This is the first time I’ve had this much issue removing a print.
I knew it would stick fairly well on the textured PEI, but this was a whole new level. A bit surprised I didn’t peel it, to be honest.
I’m leaning the same direction as those people: Buying a stick and keeping it around for those few times I do use TPU. PETG and PLA is still 98% of what I print, and they both come off easily on textured and PLA easily on smooth.
The question I’m stuck with though: Textured with glue or smooth with glue for TPU?
Where were you and your amazing advice before we bought a house and made tiny humans???