As long as the printer is enclosed and has a all-metal hotend you’re golden.

3MF is just a container file that includes 3D meshes like STL but also metadata like texture, colour, MMU information, slicer settings and much more. It is supported by basically all software in the 3D printing world.

A friend of mine who owns an A1 complains that it regularly clogs. I could imagine that Bambu tries to avoid that by regularly purges through the slicer. Total shot in the dark though.

Printers for Ants have a lot of fun ones. I love the Dualing Zero and Double Dragon concepts.

That’s not a parametric CAD software though. And it has the same pitfalls as Onshape.

TinkerdCAD is nice to slap together a few shapes or objects (as long as they don’t need to be dimensionally accurate), but once you want to chamfer all egdes of a cube you are faster learning an entirely different software and creating the object from scratch.

How would you verify this? I usually include a screenshot from Onshape if I have not printed a model of mine yet.

I love Printables for my own files, functional prints and printer upgrades, Thangs for FDM printable decoration and pretty things, Yeggi/Cults3D for miniatures and SLA printable stuff.

But all platforms have great models and creators.

Americas enemy

So… Greenland?

No one answered so I will:

Have an enclosed printer! You won’t be able to print anything larger than a couple of cm otherwise. Also make sure to not have air gaps, any cold air getting in can potentially lift up a corner.

You need a good first layer, even more so than with PLA. Have it squish a little more so that it sticks to the build plate like crazy.

Preheat your chamber passively with the bed. With my enclosed Ender 3 I did 10 minutes before large prints.

High bed temps: you might get away with 90°C at the lowest but 100°C is recommended.

When a print starts to lift off the build plate there’s no fixing it. Either you’re fine with the warp (and some squished layers/deformation) or you have to restart the print. No way to sugar-coat this.

Turn down part cooling as much as your overhangs allow, though with a hot enough chamber you might get away with “a lot” of cooling.

Print with brim or adhesion tabs! Mind the geometry of your part: models with tall walls will tend to warp more.

Tl;dr: printing ABS can be cruel, but it rewards you with strong, light parts that stay in shape even at high ambient temps like a car interior.

If you buy a Voron you need to be aware that everything the printer does it does because of YOU!

Any problems that arise will be due to misconfiguration, bad assembly, no proper tuning… But when you get it to print amazing results that is YOUR accomplishment.

Yeah, I absolutely agree!

The only thing that one has to give Bambulab credit for is making 3D printing accessible to people who don’t want to or don’t have the skills to tinker with their printer.

For now, most of the ad bullshit can be turned off. Though it turned back on after the latest software update and forced me to spend another 10 minutes digging through the horrendous settings menu.

Cam gears are on the outside of the engine though. No danger of all of that.