9I have the cc2 and had the Neptune 4 pro before that.

My honest view on elegoo.

While you get some amazing deals on their latest machines. When things go wrong. As in bad design issues. You will often find the community is the only real help. And that can take some time.

Elegoo seems to have a release a new version fix strategy rather then help existing customers.

They will stand by warremtee as far as replacement parts go. But their prices honestly mean any design issues are built in for the model you buy. (Given as a company. They do work on small margins. I. A field where such issues are common. It’s hard to blame them.)

That said, the community is pretty darn good. And they are fairly open with their software etc, So alternatives etc are possible given time.

On the whole as an occasional user with a little technical ability. I consider them a good buy. But would hesitate if I needed them to be reliable for any form of business. I’m poor and find the fiddling fun sometimes. And can wait a bit and struggle when I have a project. If you do not think that way. Spend more on a printer with more support.

ATM the CC1 is likely the best deal on a core xy out there. But many community upgrades are advisable.

The CC2 fixes many of those needs. But it’s lack of internal website introduces more. IE Linux is a pain. And their website has occasional issues.

Orca are openly working on support for CC2 web issue. But ATM generating it’s GCode and moving via usb is required.

Solid advice above. 3d printing on these things is a huge issue initially. Set up etc is very fiddly. And this is with a new set up with everything documented by the manufacturer. As soon as you start playing with the mess others have made dealing with the same issues. More so after having dismantled and moved a set up to sell.

Really not a fun task for a first timer.

Once you have done it once and understand the issues involved and just how minor errors can mess with plate adhesive and other issues. It would be a fine purchase. But not that cheap. 1/2 price of a newer model seems normal.

But it is also worth remembering. While these printers are very upgradeable. The tech is changing fast. And this is the price range where an older printer is likely to have changed the most compared to newer models.

Get your head out of your arse hole.

Nothing in the thread requires your anal level of analysis. The vast majority of 3d printers are 500mms.

I have no requirement to consider one printer made by the same fucking company when answering if the speed relates to travel or print.

When you are review an academic paper such anal interpretations may matter. Some jo commenting on print vs travel in just fucking pathetic.

First printer this size and price range. Above 500mm.

Travelling I assume. Printing very much depends on the fillament etc. not much a printer can do to change that. But a nearly 30% increase in travel speed has a significant effect on the over all time.

Don’t give up so easy. Pretty sure it can be expanded to fit you on the bed.

Just to confirm. Hygroscopic does not mean the material is unsuitable for wet conditions as a finished product.

Your comment suggested that was your assumption.

The issue is that FDM (and all plastic 3d printing) depends on the molecular bods reforming as plastic is melted and reshaped. Almost all physical materials absorb moisture from the air. But some more than others. Highly hygroscopic materials when melted below glass transition temps. The moisture within the molecular bonds dramatically affects the materials’ ability to rejoin and reform those strong bonds. This results in some very odd effects on the final product, making effective production impossible.

The general rule is heat (30 to 90c depending on material) and time is needed to remove the absorbed water before printing. As for how long. Well for every 5c below the perfect temp for your material, the time doubles. This time starts at 4 to 12 hours depending on the material. (data is online) So yeah the time can become days if not using the perfect temp.

I am currently struggling with this myself with ASA. As its my first time trying it. (im new to all this).

Lol

I’ll go hide my shame

I’m going to assume you decided the extra weight may improve vacuuming in some limited situation.

But thanks for leaving the correction to make me wonder for a while. Made your comment almost enjoyable.

PA6 nylon is the best for strength and chemical resistance. As some parts need to survive in bilge water for a decade or so. Diesel oil will rut them. Nylon plastics are best for this and heat resistance from hot engine. As parts will be used their as well.

Yeah I know it is one of the hardest to work with. Hence the tent and dryer comment.

Would be fantastic if someone with experience in it can tell me if the tent solution is good enough.

Worst comes to worst all have to build a frame enclosure, and it is only a few parts where nylon is required. So I can learn.

The fact that the neptune is able to print at the temps needed is one of the reasons I am considering it.