Here’s hoping the appropriate machines get off-loaded by the big-name publishers and purchased by those with more respect for the medium. That, and/or, DIY paperback book-binding gets quality improvements and cheaper, and takes off.

Note, @[email protected] is referring to metal-safes, not the plastic file-safe crap you’ll find in Walmart.

For hard-drive and chip-storage destruction, its hard to beat a drill or a hydraulic press. Holes, or snapping the storage-medium in half will generally do. From there to recyclers or landfill, either is less toxic to the environment than burning the stuff in a PC or phone.

What you want, if it needs refractory-cement, Kaowool, or whatever the insulation in the walls of fire-safes is, is called a Forge or an Incinerator, maybe a Kiln or a Heat-soak Furnace, and no, an off-the-shelf Fire-safe is far from sufficient without abusrdist-levels of modification.

The heat needs somewhere to go, and those safes, the plastic home-and-office-grade ones anyways, are designed to take external pressure, not hold it in. In-fact, part of why they work is that the oxygen get’s sucked-out by the fire outside -they generally aren’t air-tight, save maybe the “flood-safe” ones … which I still would be surprised to see protect anything versus prolonged submersion.

Even if you used an electric heating-element and seal the gap you need for that perfectly, you’re going to out-gas the plastics and insulation, destroying the integrity of the safe and contaminating the area with toxic fumes, long before the contents are singed-enough to cause much damage without additional oxygen. Once you’ve got an open flame, your electric heating-element is fucked, so while you could maybe BS a fire-safe to suit your purpose, its one-time-use and closing/locking it is working against you every step of the way.

If it has to be cheap/free, and low-technical-difficulty, there’s Primitivist channels on youtube that will show you how to make a forge from clay and/or clay-brick and mud.

I guess if heat-alone would do what you want, a dutch-oven over an open fire could do, or a charcoal-chimney-starter if the items are small-enough. For PID-document destruction, I use a fire-pit, or rather, I use bills and reciepts to light kindling, but I usually have enough of both that you could almost call the wood in the pit an after-thought.

Oh no, I’m absolutely convinced you are right. Now, convince the moms …

That’s just facebook with extra steps

facebook first went to shit around the time kids and grandparents were allowed to join, so …

I don’t, but there is no smart-or-dumb-phone that has it. The fact that’s due to plan availability changes nothing, nevermind that with said plan, almost any recent phone would do.

No argument here.

I use closer to a terrabyte a month, and I am well-aware that it is a plan issue. That doesn’t change the fact that the only any-number-of-mobile-devices/plan pairing that allows me to do what I want where I want is a smartphone. That includes downloading content for offline-viewing with minimal hassle.

When my kids pay for their own phone service, maybe I’ll go all-in on piracy instead, but in the mean-time, I’m exploiting that which I am already paying for, with a device I’ve had paid-off for years.

Find me one with an unlimited hotspot plan, and I’ll switch tomorrow. Literally, that is what my smartphone offers. Not the hotspot, but unlimitted data plan and the means to use it to the fullest on the phone itself?

Close enough that this is my bar to meet, even though I would rather switch to a separate e-Ink tablet, dumb-phone-with-hotspot, and steam-deck-or-similar, for EDC-or-close-to; I would probably carry just the tablet and phone most days, maybe just the phone and deck on others.

I’m not watching that. I might look-up “Keonne Rodriguez, co-founder of Samourai Wallet” at some point, but the only thing this post has going for it is that that text was available in the Video Description on youtube.

Gotta disable UPNP to commit to this specific strategy …

Just as likely that red sliver at the end was the traffic created by his intentional usage of the phone all-along. Telemetry and ads are just that gross, but what do I know?

That was 20 years ago. Few, if any of those employees would still be with the company today. “Knowing” means nothing to the passage of time, particularly in the tech sector.

No they’re not. IBM sold the brand and supply chain off. Not sure how many employees were kept, transfered, or axed, but the concensus has long been that it wasn’t enough to justify your claim.

If the bearing were loose on the shaft, this would be a different conversation entirely.

If adjustment/refinement of the fit in the housing were out of the question, it shouldn’t be made out of plastic, but even in the world of metal-cutting machine tools, adjustment is often neccessary, and if a shim, spacer or set-screw does the job, its what is done.

Meanwhile, my own suggestion was, first, the upgrade kit.

Resin isn’t that cheap either. Then there’s shipping. That said, if shimming works for test-prints, it may work for this. Personally, I can’t believe there’s not a wedge-centering end-cap or set-screws for dialing in the centering of the bearing just-so, but I’m no expert on this printer.

Epoxy isn’t cheap, unless you have it on-hand already or buy in-bulk. So you can burn ten-or-so-dollars on an epoxy fix that might or might not work as desired, or $40 on an upgrade that should.

That said, are you sure the printer is otherwise in good working order? Have you tried shimming that bearing and running a test print?

Unclear, but they are saying it will affect side-loaded apps, and no way to bypass with Developer Options, so I would assume so.