IMO, toolchangers are the future trend in 3d printing. Snapmaker U1 is the current hype due to being relatively cheap and using open source klipper based firmware. Other than that, Prusa has a toolchanger, I would prefer them over Bambu any day. But me personally, I will either wait till U1 becomes cheaper or wait for a diy OSS solution like Voron with IDX once it comes out. But that definitely shouldn’t be anyone’s first printer.

Wasn’t following the guy, but I will now. Fewer and fewer people in yt 3D printing space remain that care about the ethics of the companies selling this and more and more are just bambu sponsored.

Wow, that is somehow even worse. 😯

Well, tbh, I’m not familiar enough about K1, is the hardware open source? If so, can you compare the parts? If you have some vastly different model to the current one, perhaps you have a preproduction or an early rev? It may be that you need to convert a lot of it to the new style. I don’t know where you could ask for help, but some bigger community may help you better. Reluctantly, I suggest trying reddit, perhaps there, someone has gone into similar issues. At the very least, it may attract creality’s attention, and they may help you to avoid bad press.

My only advice is - don’t give up. A good thing is there is a cheap and usually reliable way to fix this. Some combination of parts will work, but you will have to do a lot of research and/or trial and error. You will then be a lot more knowledgeable to fix your printer in the future. This is in contrast to buying a printer like bambulab, where everything works out of the box, but it will cost more upfront. I’ve already worked with a bunch of creality printers and know how to solve most of the problems, so I will choose the more open source and cheaper route every time, but it’s not for everyone, or even most people. You already have a creality printer, so it may make sense to try to fix it. But also, at one point, you may value reliability more than cost.

Unfortunately, creality has always been known for this sort of stuff and the sad part is they have not improved at all. Just last week, I had a friend buy a used ender 3 neo. Mainboard has 4.2.2 version, you’d think that would be a u useful information. But turns out - there is a silent and a non-silent version of 4.2.2. So firmwares are not compatible. But I found out not all 4.2.2 are even with the same mcu - some have stm32 and some gd32 (a clone). So my friend - being inexperienced, upon finding that EEPROM setting saving was not enabled by default, promptly flashed the wrong firmware and bricked the printer. I helped him flash klipper, he’s printing again. But creality has been mixing and matching parts with no tracking or any logic or reason since forever. I thought they will up their game after bambu pressure, but apparently not.

And even if you can - is it worth it? I mean - do I care and should I care? Is the point of music detecting every detail of the recording or can I appreciate it without paying that much attention to production? For instance, I find it much more convenient to use Bluetooth headphones as it allows me to move around the house. Flac immediately stops being relevant, as Bluetooth codec is really bad compared to almost any codec. I recently tried ldac codec on my headphones - couldn’t really tell the difference. Mp3 128kbps is just fine for me. Almost any situation. I care about musical content much more than production details. Other people might care more. I don’t.

Yeah, but notepad++ was recently hacked and been compromised. An unfortunate timing.

BTW, Tools for Humanity is another Sam Altman startup, that also has World Coin crypto currency and wants to scan human irises for human verification. Razer was one of the first endorsers. The whole thing walks like a rugpull scam and quacks like a rugpull scam.

I’d say too fucking late. Those who have had problems have already left. And the rest can’t, for whatever reason. So walking back won’t bring those who left back. Or even if some do come back, they’ll leave on the first sign of shenanigans, cause now they know they have a choice and that it is doable.

Interesting experiment. But same idea as a tremolo bridge, but instead of springs in tension, he uses a magnet. An improvement could be the same - instead od directly pulling, he could try the hinge/lever setup like in a tremolo. Could also use mechanical advantage to make use of smaller magnets. An additional benefit is improved safety. But you would just reinvent the tremolo, only make it more expensive. Already, this sounds more or less like a floating style tremolo, but with additional floating. And increased price. And safety concerns.

AFAIK there is no reason why vst companies wouldn’t produce linux builds, vst has been opened for Linux for a long time now, they just need to port it. iLok should also be possible, though I personally hate it, but I’m not a pro.

Nice, I’ll have to give it a good look!

Not with that attitude :)

I think in his particular case, this works, as he uses pla-gf or pla-cf, but in general, I doubt this technique works for any old filament, perhaps for Pla, and i doubt for petg.

Freecad is horrible in terms of ux, but otherwise very powerful and worth the time investment, IMO. Keep at it, I think it will pay off for you in the long run.

Layer time, most likely. You can avoid it by setting minimum layer time higher. When the curvy part is being printed, it takes longer for that layer, so it gets to cool down more before the next layer, in contrast to still being a bit hot before the next layer if the layer time is short. This causes unevenness in the looks a bit. You may also decrease the effect by lowering the printing temperature, but I would not recommend it. Also, part cooling fan can have an effect as well.

Also, white color is the worst for troubleshooting, literally any other color would do better. But even from that, I see your overhangs are drooping, suggesting too big temperature, over extrusion or no part cooling. Edit: corners also look overly rounded, so pressure advance is likely very off, too.

This looks to me like your part cooling fan is not turning on or pid calibration of the hotend is not good. Also may be over/under extrusion. You may need to go through calibration steps for your printer. It’s likely the firmware update cleared the calibration. There are many sites that will walk you through it, but I frequently use Teaching tech’s website: teachingtechyt.github.io

Based on how AI might actually replace a bunch of professions, and nobody fighting tooth and nail about it - I don’t think so.