Has anyone seen any recent pricing for the standalone kit? In a video a while back I remember them estimating around $250 for the base hardware and $40-60 for each nozzle. I’m hoping that $250 base price hasn’t gone out the window. I was planning on building a voron 2.4 later this year with the INDX in mind.
Can you please upload some screenshots of the model you’re printing in the slicer, and the related settings? That’s really odd behavior.
It isn’t an “infill” setting. It’s “top/bottom” settings. I don’t what slicer you’re using, but every slicer should give you the option to set the number of top layers and bottom layers.
CNC Kitchen did a video a few years ago demonstrating that infill percentage has little to no effect on part strength, provided the rest of the print (walls, floors, ceilings) has enough material to grab on to.
This is a pretty slop-py article.
The entirety of voron is an open source project, they do not make or sell printers or parts. None of their printers are designed for this size, though. People have definitely made custom ones larger than the schematics but there are drawbacks for going even 50-100mm over the normal max of 350mm, doubling it would certainly require more engineering than “print some parts longer”
To give another perspective, I had a main board go out on my Neptune 3 right after a year of owning it, and they sent me a new one for free 🤷🏽♂️ the resin printer I have from them has seen much less use but has been rock solid every time I’ve used it.
Like I said, I’m not the most knowledgeable person on the subject, so I don’t know if there was more to the outrage than just “it’s an Israeli company”. I’m not currently in the market for a prusa printer, so I’m not particularly invested in their politics, just speaking on things that I have seen in this community
I’m far from the most knowledgeable on the subject, but I remember hearing something about one of their prospective printers not being listed as open source, and that they partnered with some Israeli company.
The corner is laying down. The would be no supports in either case, and the fillet avoids hard turns while the chamfer still has two (less sharp) angles.
Like 99% of things in 3D printing, “Xs are to be preferred over Ys” is an entirely circumstantial statement that is never going to be true all of the time.
You might try adding a small fillet or chamfer to the inside corners of the model. 3D printers don’t like making sharp, pointed turns; rounded edges (or wider angled turns) tend to print much better.
The rounded (fillet) corners will probably be less visible, and will prevent the start / stopping point where the problem is occurring
Hey, nice fix.
Only thing I’d look at is maybe adding a slope to the little protruding rectangle, so the model can be printed on its front/ back side without supports or losing quality on the first few layers of the notch. Based on the complete photo, it looks like only the lower side of the rectangle that’s resting on the monitor needs to be there, you can make that a small angled lip instead of the block.
Awesome! One of the biggest advantages of switching to a larger nozzle diameter is being able to print those larger layers. Cuts print time dramatically
0.3mm layers seems kinda high for a 0.4mm nozzle (I usually try to keep layer height ≤1/2 nozzle diameter), could be your hotend is having a hard time melting PETG that quickly?
As others have said, you are severely under-extruding.
Looking at your pictures, I do see a potentially major issue that nobody has addressed: the taughtness of the filament between your hot end and runout sensor. It does not look like filament is being fed to the extruder easily enough for the extruder gears to grip the filament. If you’re able to print other filaments, it’s possible that this one has a harder or slicker surface than say PLA.
I would try temporarily disabling the runout sensor, and routing the filament under the top bar, directly to the hotend, to test this.
Like others have said, it’s definitely not “too good to be true” territory, but there’s so many things that can be wrong or not right with it that you’re much better off getting a new printer. Sure you might save $100 getting a used one but the chances of you spending weeks chasing a problem that you admittedly have no knowledge of diagnosing is just way too high for it to be worth it. For someone with a bunch of knowledge and experience this would be a decent deal, but so is a car with a check engine light or salvage title… could be (probably are) opening yourself up to way more headache than the money’s worth.
I’m not saying your opinion is wrong or that you have to watch the video or anything like that, but videos like this are made so that you can see the testing procedure and judge it’s validity without just having to assume they did their job right. I wouldn’t trust someone just saying “yup, tried it out, doesn’t really matter 👍🏽”
It is from the brand Elegoo. The printer is pretty dated at this point, so it’s not the one I’d recommend. There’s probably more robust systems out there.
I’ll offer a counterpoint. If this is your first printer, don’t build it from a kit. Most printers will require some assembly, and that’s totally fine, but if you have no experience with 3d printers (and likely anything similar in size or technical requirements), it’s going to be way too easy to make some small mistake that results in days of diagnosing where you went wrong.
My advice would be to find a decent mid-range printer, and if you really wanna dive deep in to the hobby, build or buy a big fancy second one later. I’m still rocking my $150 Neptune 3 from like 3 years ago, I’ve thought about upgrading but haven’t really needed to.
I misinterpreted your original comment saying that YouTube wouldn’t lead you directly to them to mean that it would stear you away from them (which would of course require them to do the sorting you’re talking about). Yeah they don’t really give a shit, just shovel whatever they think will get you to engage.
If that’s what they’re going with, that’s much more approachable, assuming it has most of everything you need to adapt most printers.
I wonder, what is the difference between the dedicated prusa kit, and the standard one? If the normal one is meant to convert any printer, why would one go for the more expensive set?