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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 24th, 2024

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  • The issue is not “oh, that will not do good”,but more “does the risk outweight the benefit or not”.

    Intubating a patient is always a delicate procedure, doing so with an emergency patient (who obviously has not fasted, has a acute reason for being intubated,etc.) is even more difficult and doing so prehospitally is even more risky. It’s dark, cramped, loud, there are other enviromental factors (I once failed because my hands were shaking to much from the cold), etc. And,in case of a medically assisted intubation before you can intubate you kick out the patients breathing reflexes so they will sure as hell die if you do not suceed. A so called “cannot oxygenate (=Cannot ventilate)/cannot intubate” situation is a nightmarish situation which gives seasoned anaesthesists nightmares. . This makes intubation a skill hard to master - you need around 100 intubations to learn it and 15 per year to keep that skill. Seperatly for adults and children. (The later is even hard to uphold for anaesthesists)

    While out tooling has improved and made it FAR easier and safer (videolaryngoskopy, capnography,etc.) than 20 years ago, it is still debatable how safe it is when performed prehospitally. (A recent German study showed a first pass rate - the rate how sucessful a intubation is on first try- of 60% for all professions,including paramedics, anaesthesists,etc.)

    Additionally it takes a lot of time - which will occupy a team. While in hospital more people can do other things at the same time. So it’s worth considering “hey,we take 10min of scene time to tube a patient. A hospital is 10 min away. Is jt worth to make a run there and tube then with a better enviroment, while other people can do labs,run blood,etc.?”

    The question therefore is more than valid and not as easy to answer - it is always a consideration of patient status, location, resources and enviromental factors. (How bad is the patient? How hard will he be to intubate? How far away from hospital am I? Do I have a intensely trained team I work with every day or am I a solo responder working with a EMT crew that is barely holding it together? How sure am I that I can intubate this patient? How up to the task am I really? How is the truck,the scene?) It’s often a very tough decision. And I saw countless patients die from providers developing a “tuberitis” - the tube needs to go in, no matter what.

    Don’t get me wrong - the UK for example has a lack of prehospitally available qualified providers who can properly intubate and I am a old fuck who in doubt will intubate the patient (unless it’s a child, no longer doing these). But I have far more training in that than the average provider. (Currently a high three digit count in the logbook, thanks to working in anaesthesia part time for years)

    Source: Am a critical care paramedic, for almost 25 in EMS, have done research on this.





  • So,here’s another update almost a month later.

    Am I still happy with the U1?

    Yes.

    Am I happy about everything? No.

    A few things that tend to get on my nerves.

    • The lack of filament cutting is annoying and massively delays changing filaments. Argh.

    • The filament roll placement is shit,especially when printing ASA and similar filaments that need to be really dry. (PEBA) Placing them out in the open turned out to be an issue, especially when you use a spool for frequent shorter prints. (E.g. one part of 5h today,another tomorrow,etc.) Especially annoying with the point above which makes simply chucking away four spools time consuming. I migitated that by using a almost closed system of containers - but I suffer from issues with the filament feeders occassionally as the axles for these tend to be an issue.

    • ASA has shown mixed results with the improvised hood. (Aka a plastic bin, not fitting properly, holes between it and the printer covered with tape). After looking at it with a thermal camera its clear why: The large ventilation holes on the sides let a lot of air go through (tbf,the current location here is a bit exposed) and the headpad is not heating up fully uniform (but more uniform than the P1S in comparison). So I blame the ventilation holes. Smaller ASA prints are not a problems, larger ones are - especially with more unforgiving filaments. (E.g. Spectrum 275 works well, Black Forest doesn’t, Extrudr is somewhat okay) For testing purposes I tried to print with the holes covered and that worked well. But this creates it’s own issues - for PLA you need way more ventilation as the fans are FAR less powerful (even though louder) than in the P1S.

    BUT I will improve things

    • The acrylic glas panes arrived so I will install a proper hood now.
    • The additional tempsensor will arrive tomorrow. I want trustworthy independent temperature values in the case before I block
    • AND,biggest news, the Panda Breath has arrived and BIQU has published a manual how to install it perfectly into the U1. Will do so soon and expect most of the issues to be solved by that.

    So this sounds negative,right? It isn’t! I am still very happy and the U1 solves a fuckton of isssues I had with the P1S. Multimaterial,automation, filament tracking, etc. For PLA my print results (with a bit of tuning) are on par with the P1S OR better for things that need support. (As you can use different materials far better than with AMS) And finally having proper clipper back and the options of the extended firmware is nice.

    Funny thing: I got two aftermarket print plates from AliE and they are both providing much better grip than the snapmaker original.


  • My 3D workshop? A somewhat large custom fitted closet. The printer sits on a extending/sliding base and there are shelves with the filament boxes (I use resealable containers).

    The printer is fully enclosed (adapted U1 with a chamber heater, a chamber air filter), but the cabinet itself can also be ventilated with a exhaust going through a custom made filter array (HEPA and activated charcoal. A mate of mine is builds those for a living/has a PhD in it, so it is somewhat sophisticated) or unfiltered. Additionally I installed a light and various temperature probes in it.

    These days a small display should arrive that I want to fit outside it, so I can control the printer, vents,etc. from there, via Home Assistant. In the long term I will also slowly replace the cheap hygrometers I now have with ZigBee ones so I can list all humidities in the display.

    Additionally I have a Chitu E1 and a Gratkit for drying. While the Gratkit fits, I haven’t found a good space for the Chitu yet.

    Next to the closet is a height adaptable desk I use for electronics and things like that so I have my post-processing tools there as well.



  • Sooo…as promised a feedback about the U1:

    • it did print a small (10x10x5mm) test cube without issues even without a hood. (Black Forest Filament ASA HF)

    • with a improvised hood that was anything but airtight I achieved 57° degrees inside the hood (measured with a temp probe 10cm above the plate). (I literally just chucked my kids toy basket on it)

    So. With a proper hood it should be no issue to print ASA in larger prints. But there are two downsides, well,one. The other one might be helpful.

    • There is very little room inside the build chamber that is not used, very different from the P1S for example. That will make it hard to just chuck a heater in - it very likely would need to go in the top cover or somewhere else. I have ordered the Panda Breath,but that will take another month to arrive.

    • The printer is very open in the bottom.(Literally jusf grated metal) On one hand this might be an issue if too much cold(or dusty) air comes in through that or too much air goes out through that that is then unfiltered.

    So my current idea is to actually use the space below the printer for heating or to remix the hood from srinn to have space for the Panda Breath.


  • philpo@feddit.orgto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldLinux Slicer
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    3 months ago

    Orca as a flatpak/AppImage works without any issues here.(Debian 13, Fedora 43) There is also a LinuxServer.io version which I tend to run on my server and simply use a browser.

    Basically while I have Orca on my Fedora 43 Desktop and a Debian 13 test machine I got tired of synching the filament profiles and somestimes projects between all family devices (5 Notebooks, 3 Desktops). Therefore we simply have a docker container with the Linuxserver.io Orca. That can be accessed from every device and simply loads models from a NFS share. So filament and process data is unified at this single point.

    Additionally it provides an added layer of security as my printers live in their own, fully offline, subnet and only this container,Spoolman/Spoolease and Home Assistant can access it. (Thank you Bambu rolleyes)


  • Yeah. But with any hood (aka the famous ikea hood) it seems to ve already working reasonably good.

    In theory the P1S is also not good for ASA due to it’s lack of chamber heating.

    In reality I print 50% of my prints with ASA and besides some preheating via plate it is a walk in the park. (Which by now is automated via Home Assistant for me).

    And of course there are always external heaters available. A friend has his P1S in a basement that has 5° all year round. A 30€ heater did it. Simply chucked into a corner and done.

    But yeah. Out of the box it is an issue,yeah. I will report back.


  • The Centauri was designed to be a price breaker and has some drawbacks,but currently it is mainly so cheap because they did not manage to get a proper multicolour system going (which they promised). For someone who mainly prints ASA it’s a decent choice and relatively open software wise. I have a few friends who have it and none had issues - and all were new to printing. (Tbh, if I had the WAF and the room I would have one for ASA/technical printing only…but well…)

    For the Snapmaker everything I read in terms of ASA would make it “workable”. (Even with a 12$ hood from a Ikea basket). If you send me a DM around the 15th or 20th of January I can tell you more,by then mine should have arrived and I should have had to run tests for all my technical filaments. (Even if you just want to print ASA/technical a toolchanger has its merits,e.g. for mixing materials or -this is not yet implemented but like to follow- different nozzle sizes). It’s very very unlikely that it will take hundreds of hours of work to print ASA - all the people I spoke with basically chucked some kind of hood on it and were good to go and from the technical parameters it should not be an issue. And if it is then it’s "chuck a external heater in some corner and your donex(they come prebuild these days).

    Good that you take it seriously. Sadly there are a lot of people onlinr who claim “ASA is not toxic, I sleep next to my unfiltered ASA printer all the time”,etc. The reality is: A longer ASA print is deadly enough to kill a small bird in a small room. While filaments have improved, the filtering solutions used by printers are often,well, not much more than a marketing buzzword and none eliminate the risks - which is an issue as ASA has some potentially cancerous compounds (in theory they are not used normally - but formulations differ between batches), stryrenes are always airway inflamming and ASA is the worst offender for ultrafine particles. So your solution is basically the best thing you can do but sadly my garage has no power and is far to prone to thieves.

    And yeah, ask me about Bambu being a shame. They were always “doubtful and not open”, but their shit worked. A few month after I got mine they went full enshitification mode and did their crazy lockdown thing. (Only when facing legal consequences they at least backtracked a bit - but it’s still not all the way). And their support is pure evil (my favorite story: They did not send me part of an order - somewhat expensive spare part and required a video of me not getting the part - how in hell I should have done that is still a mystery - A stronly worded legal letter helped). And their new product lines are somewhat buggy,artificially limited (like the actively heated AMS that cannot print and dry at the same time), the spare parts that don’t exist in the required amounts and the very strange design decisions that seem to be mainly driven by “doing things in a way that keeps the ecosystem closed”.

    Btw: Happy new printer year. This is officially my first post 2026.


  • If you just want to print ASA and no multicolour the Centauri Carbon is actually not a bad choice - it brings everything to print ASA and works relatively reliable. And it goes pretty cheap at the moment.

    Not quite in your price range but the current hot shit (would need a improvised top cover and maybe even a external chamber heater) is the Snapmaker U1,but while it seems a decent machine so far it is clearly meant for PLA/PETG/PCTG. Nevertheless I am also using my P1S (Bambu) as a very sucessful ASA printer which in theory shouldn’t be possible (it is,just needs more time and preparation).

    BUT: please, for the love of god,the spaghetti monster and everyone else: Still get a proper ventilation/filter solution. While ASA is less toxic than ABS it is still far from healthy.

    And stay away from Bambu,imho. Not only is their whole environment becoming more and more walled garden like, their support and spare part availability is simply shit.




  • For a lot of technical things that need to keep stable I use ASA these days. While PETG and PCTG (I mainly use PCTG these days instead of PETG) are cheaper and a little bit easier to print, I have found PETG to be too UV suspectible over time - unless there are additives in it- and I had some parts printed in PETG and exposed to the sun indoors (exposed spot close to the window,but under pressure,like your desk leg) loose strength. While ASA is more expensive and a little bit more difficult to print, but there are versions who are extremely easy to print these days. (But get a proper exhaust / filtering solution) and I simply want things to “work” for a long time. ("Do it right once*-mentality probably) The mixture of the mechanical strain and UV+ temperature seems to be the issue and ASA tolerantes that better.

    For laundry detergents PETG should be no issue, wouldn’t use PLA,though. DO.NOT.USE.FDM.PRINTED materials for anything that touches your food unless you have done a lot of research. Don’t trust the" no issues" fanboys.

    1. That’s ASA. Most definitly. If you need more structural strength use something with CF. If that isn’t enough maybe PC/PBT CF - but that is overkill…


  • As the original link has been taken down and your advice is still very valid just one point I wanted to add: This is valid UNLESS it’s from someone whom you know well enough that they tell you the truth and knows what they are doing - in that case it can be a good idea to buy a used printer from someone who knows what they are doing and who has ironed out the teething problems some machines have and can provide advice if something goes wrong.

    I was luckily enough to do something similar (with my CNC-machine,though. Standard MPCNC,but the friend I got them from is a pro - he designs his own mainboards and stuff - and would have been able to fix some issues myself without him/would have become frustrated) once and was able to help out a friend this way - he got a nice, highly modified but working very well Anycubic (back then one of the most reliable models…) and I got money for the next machine.

    Otherwise: your advice is very valid. I also fucked up in that regard once.